SPOTLIGHT INVESTIGATIVE Certified Forensic Locksmiths Explained A walk-through of a typical forensic door inspection, documentation, and thoughts on getting started in this lucrative field. By Tom Resciniti Demont, AHC, CAI, CFDI, CFL, CMIL, CML, CMST, ARL C ertified Forensic Locksmiths come in all shapes and sizes, and what I mean by this is that CFLs specialize in different types of forensic investigations. The most common forensic inspector is automotive for theſt and arson, which requires a vast knowledge in automotive electronics and mechanical operation. I am an expert in door frames and hardware based on the building code when the building was built; I have in-depth knowledge of building and fire codes. Just like the famous “CSI” and “NCIS” TV shows, every inspection is treated as a crime scene. Using this principle, I first photograph every angle of the scene. Next, I document all noticeable violations to the mechanical hardware, such as filing the strike plate, loose hardware and screws missing. I test each component of the complete assembly to determine if there is any failure. Additionally, once you are on the scene to investigate, review everything in the vicinity of the inspection area. This includes checking for any violation of the Uniform Building and Fire Codes voted into law in the state where the incident occurred. Although it may or may not have anything to do with the incident in question, all violations must be reported. All information gathered may help attorneys settle a civil suit, or it may build a stronger argument for the prosecution in a criminal case. Follow the Rules When inspecting door assemblies, follow these simple door and hardware specification writing guideline rules from the Door and Hardware Institute: Door Hanging Is the door hung properly using the correct hinges/pivots? Are the screws tight and the hinge/pivots snug with no movement? Is there ⅛ inch uniform clearance on the two styles (sides) and top rail of the door to frame? On a pair of doors that meet in the center, does the gap not exceed ⅛ of an inch (plus or minus 1 /16 -inch)? Is the undercut (bottom) gap of the door to floor less than the ¾-inch maximum? Are the door and frame labels present? Are they covered with paint? (On wood label doors, 18 KEYNOTES FEBRUARY 2015 the label may be stapled on the top edge of the door. Missing labels or painted labels fail inspection.) Door Control Is the door-closing device installed properly? Is it the correct closing device for the assembly? Is it loose and/or is fluid visible at the device? To answer the above questions, first open the door and let it close from 70 degrees. The door must close smoothly and no faster than three seconds until it arrives three inches from closing, at which point the latching speed takes over and pulls the door closed until it latches. All fire door assemblies must have positive latching. Using a gauge (O-Ring plunger type is suitable), test the pressure for releasing the latch. It should be no more than 15 pounds. Practice using the gauge so the motion is smooth; you should be guiding, not push- ing, the door to the open position. Next, check the force to get the door in motion by pushing the door at the lock area to three inches. The gauge should not exceed 30 pounds at this point. Then, determine the WWW.ALOA.ORG
